Fan Shroud

The second thing to print is the Printrbot Fan Shroud, to improve the cooling efficiency of the fan.

After the previous failure, I decided to use the pre-sliced version to see if that was the problem.  The first few attempts had print nozzle crashes into the bed, and calibration wasn't working.

On a thorough examination, I found that one of the bolts holding down the aluminium print bed had not threaded properly through both pieces of plywood.  As a result the wood had separated with a 5mm gap.

Problem Fixed, recalibrate, reprint, success.

Installed On Fan

Calibration & Test Print

Need to calibrate the Z-Axis before I print.

Here is the Official Guide, but Tom's guide describes it perfectly.

Didn't want to fiddle with slicer settings for the first print, so I downloaded the provided 'First Cube' object which is already in G-Code

Thought I would have to kill the first few prints to trim up the Z-Axis height with a M212 command, but the cube came out great.

Encouraged, I decided to jump straight into the fan shroud upgrade next, and do my own slicing to mix things up.

The print failed at about 10mm height, so I killed the job, and that's it for the night.

Software Install & Setup

USB Setup

So it looks like the print software uses a serial connection to talk to the printer, which means we have to install a driver to emulate a serial port over USB.

Serial USB Driver http://pjrc.com/ teensy/serial_install.exe

It seems I had to change the com port number to 4 in device manager to get it working.

Adafruit has an excellent guide: Device Manager Com Ports

Printer Settings

The recommended printer control software is Repetier Host http://www.repetier.com/

Add a printer, configure settings:

You must change the Reset on Connect to Disabled otherwise commands queue up and don't get sent.

Don't think I changed any default settings on this Tab.

Default settings here too.

Using the manual controls I determined that my printer couldn't get the full 100 x 100 mm print area because it hits the belt tensioner at the end of the X direction.

I'm not worried about 3mm, so I can just set the print area here to avoid an axis over-run.

Slicer Settings

I find that a 0.4mm resolution is a good option for prototypes and 0.2mm is usually the way to go for a nicer finished product.  0.1mm can be tried if you think you need it for special parts.

Print Settings

Adjust the layer height per print to suit.  

First layer height is bigger to help adhesion.

Avoid crossing perimeters hen help avoid oozing problems.

Random seam position doesn't seem to help on round objects.

Can lower the fill density or change the pattern for different applications. See the Infill Guide.

Adjust settings here for a solid object.

Adjust retraction crossing perimeters to help oozing or rubbing problems.

Slower speeds mean better quality generally.

These settings are working pretty well at the moment.

Higher loops on small prints. 

Use distance 0 on large prints, can help prevent warping.

Only generate support material if needed.  PLA can do extreme overhangs.

Pillars might be easiest to clean up afterwards.

Complete individual objects seems to be getting ignored?

First layer 200% can help adhesion on fine resolution prints.

 

Filament Settings

Every guide says to measure filament and adjust here.

I saw another guide that had increased temperature on first layer.

Currently have fan on auto.  I saw another guide on the reprap wiki that says crisper edges can be obtained with PLA with more cooling.

Would want more cooling with filament like NinjaFlex because it's softer.

 

Printer Settings

Set bed size and center correctly.

Setting Start G-Code of
  G28 X0 Y0
  G29
triggers the auto bed leveling.

Retraction length and Lift Z help everything.

Wiring the Printrbot

Wiring is pretty simple, pretty much just plug all plugs in to the board and get the motor ones around the correct way.

Wired Up Board

Since I had tucked my X-Axis and Z-Axis motor wires into the body before putting the screws in, I had no space to route the cables through the hole and out the back.

Temporary Cable Management!

Decided to fix it all up later so I can get to the printing...

Ready To Go!

Next Steps:

• Software Install
• Calibration
• Test Print
• Print a Fan Shroud
• Print Printer Upgrades

Delivery Day

Printer arrived today:

Flat-pack Printer!

Just barely fits in backpack.

Y-Axis and Extruder housing assembled.

Y / Z bearing carriage assembly.

Base with X-Axis and print bed assembly.

All assembled apart from plugging cables in to printer board.

Useful links:

Good review on my printer:

Not exactly my printer, but has good info:

Step-By Step Assembly Guide: http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/Simple+1405+Assembly/123

NOTE: Need to supply your own Blue Loctite for the grub screws.  I will have to put it on later.

Construction Notes:

• On Step 17, don't leave all the cable for the X / Z motors inside the body.  All other cables to go through this space later.
• On Step 23, make sure your bolts holding metal print bed don't separate the two plywood pieces and skew the bed height.
• On Step 37, be VERY careful threading the nylon nut on to the Z-Axis, don't strip the nut.

Next Steps:

• Cable installation
• Software Install
• Calibration
• Test Print
• Print a Fan Shroud
• Print Printer Upgrades

3D Printer Project

Idea: - Get a cheap 3D printer to make an expensive one.

Looking at a Price Comparison at http://www.3ders.org, it seems that the best cheapest option is the Printrbot Simple Maker's Kit (2014 Update)

Got one at Afafruit for around $400. delivered.